Going below 230☌ results in poor layer adhesion, whereas going above 240☌ may result in poor bridging quality. On the Ender 3 (Pro and V2), 230☌ up to 240☌ seems to be the sweet spot not just in terms of detail, but also bridging and overhang quality as well as preventing unwanted artifacts. Now, if you already know your printing settings and want to skip straight to the tips on how to improve bed adhesion to prevent warping, click here. My recommendation would be to get an affordable non-flammable Creality enclosure to be on the safe side. Of course, this could be a potential fire hazard, which is why I don’t recommend it, but it works. It’s worth noting, however, that you don’t necessarily need to buy an enclosure since you could absolutely make one yourself, or you could even put a big cardboard box over the printer and this will also work just fine. Recommended: Use an Enclosureīefore I get into the settings, I have to mention that you should absolutely use an enclosure to print ABS on an Ender 3, since this will keep the temperature inside of the printer consistent and prevent warping and layer separation. If you don’t want to have to go through all the trial and error that we did in order to find the Ideal Settings for creating high-quality prints on your Ender 3, then definitely check out our own Cura Profiles tailored specifically for the Ender 3 Printer Series. Of course, that’s not all and I’d recommend that you keep on reading to find out how my tests went, how to improve bed adhesion, how to prevent a couple of issues, and more. Here’s the short version: To print ABS on an Ender 3 you need to set the printing temperature between 230☌ and 240☌, the bed temperature to 100☌, turn off the part cooling fan, and apply some glue stick to the build surface in order to improve adhesion and prevent warping. However, you can still print ABS on an Ender 3 by adjusting some settings and using some tricks to improve bed adhesion. If you are having layer adhesion problems slowing down below 25 isn't going to help.ABS is one of the hardest materials to learn how to print properly on an Ender 3, Pro, or V2, and this is mainly due to the fact that it’s not an enclosed printer. 4 line width works out to 0.4mm³/sec flow rate through the nozzle. You could also turn up the "Maximum Resolution" in the Cura Mesh Fixes section.įinally (I've been waiting to change colors on my current print) a print speed of 5mm/sec at. Lower resolutions result in longer line segments in the toolpath and they are more efficient (at the cost of not looking as "smooth" in the print). When you have simple shapes like that you can export them from CAD at a lower resolution. That M201 line would limit the Y to 500 and so X moves would be quicker at 1000 but Y only or XY combination moves would be at 500. If you put M201 X1000 Y500 in your start up gcode then you set the Accel in Cura to 1000mm/sec². There is a trick you can play with Accel. With those numbers and a print speed of 75 - a 220 x 220 x 5 rectangular solid comes out to an 8:32 print. I start with the layer cooling blower at 0 and at layer 6 it's at 100%. I wipe the build plate down with alcohol between prints. I can't remember the last time I had a bad first layer. I want that squish in case I missed the leveling by a bit (I'm a paper leveler). When printing PLA I always run my initial layers at 105% flow. PLA isn't very prone to warpage so as long as there isn't a cool stream of air blowing at the printer it should be fine. I have an air conditioner vent above my printer so I printed a deflector for it. I wouldn't bother with the draft shield unless the printer location is actually subject to drafts. You have a heavy Y system and too much accel on the Y is a bad thing on a bed slinger. For a big piece like that I just want it done.Īccel 500 and Jerk 8. That includes the first layer and I set "number of slower layers" to 0. Print speed at least 75 and maybe even 100 for the skins. I print Silky PLA hotter as it has poor layer adhesion. Infill density 10% and Infill Layer Thickness 2X the Layer Height so it only does the infill every other layer.Ĭombing off because no one is really going to see that piece and combing moves can add a lot of time.ĥ0° bed 205° hot end as those are my norms. Skirt instead of brim because that part has so much surface area on the plate I'm confident it wouldn't lift on me. I did move to an all metal hot end when the stock one died. I'm just looking at the picture and these would be my settings for PLA. You know your printer best so these are just some thoughts rather than suggestions. For PETG I always use AquaNet Super Hold hairspray. I haven't had any trouble with adhesion with PLA. I have the glass build plate on my Ender 3P.
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